I'm still beaming in the stoke from this past weekend.
Instead of trying to find all sorts of colorful words to describe it I'll just say it was like jumping back 15 years to when I lived at the beach. Before cycling, before DC. Back when I found a place to heal from life's hard knocks. Where I built the person I am today and really found myself. When I arrived Saturday morning I felt grounded for the first time in a long time. It was seeing old friends who still charge when the ocean is richter and being out there in the most electric conditions – surrounded by an ocean as it surges and heaves, pushing fast moving water vertically until it trips onto it's self, breaking and churning, crashing and booming all around. Feeling the sting of liquid smoke on my face driven by 50mph gales, walking on the most angry of waters. I felt so alive again.
Scared as hell but acutely alive.
I have to give some props to Johnno, Brian, Warren, Mike and the East of Maui guys who defy gravity on their kites.
When the wind clocked around and went off shore we opted for more sailing on the bay since Northside was full of aggressive East Coast surfers. I never understand why guys appear so grumpy when the waves are good. We ventured around locked gates across the highway where the kiddie pool served up some solid flatwater fun.
Old friend and GFK team mate Al Yoon keeping the kiddie pool shredded.
That night I crashed at Australian John O'Leary's house in Bethany. He's been in the states long enough to lose the Dundee accent but he's still a bloke. Sharing beers and stories of traveling around the world took me back to when we worked together as carpenters and talked about the big trips we would someday take.
Johnno in his Shangri-La
Johnno's a master carpenter who built the baddest-ever outdoor shower.
I covet his shower.
I showed Johnno and his wife Jessica "24 Solo" and they seemed pretty stoked on it. We got up early to catch the first waves of the day.
Joe B thankful he didn't actually get elected to local office
A borrowed board
I don't know what exactly it is, but something about going back to the beach always helps put my life into perspective and it helps me realize I'm one very lucky guy.
With a SUUU-WEEEET new surfboard!